Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks

After the Captain Obvious intro posts on airports and airlines, here is an actual travel post. 

The Western United States just begs for road trips. It is vast, uncluttered, with spectacular drives and spectacular nature. The most wonderful backyard one could ever wish for. 

I have just spent the last 5 days on a road trip which took me from Salt Lake City to Seattle and back to Salt Lake, via Grand Tetons and Yellowstone. Why go all the way to Seattle? Friends live there, so 'nough said. Why start from Salt Lake City? I was piggybacking on the Evolution Meetings happening there. And my sweetie was there, so 'nough said. Opportunities make travels. 

Here is a map of the whole trip: 

Salt Lake City - Seattle - Salt Lake City

All in all, I traveled 2196 miles. And it was worth every inch! 

Grand Teton National Park

Yellowstone National Park is THE National Park that any NP enthusiast will want to visit at least once in their lifetime. And deservedly so. It is one of the most fascinating places on earth. I won't lecture about its geological features or even its history. The NPS Yellowstone page is there for that. Suffice it to say that, you think you know what to expect, and yet, when you stand there, you're completely in awe. Just like the Grand Canyon. 
The Grand Teton National Park, in spite of its hilarious name to any French speaker, is your entrance to Yellowstone, should you approach from the south (recommended) as I did, and what an entry... 

So here goes my two cents advice based on this experience (and my general experience with the US National Parks): 

- Planning and Lodging: 

Gear:

I love gear (evidently...) and I am a planner by nature. I like to be equipped for all the things I can think of, but most importantly, for all the things I cannot foresee. National Parks kill unprepared visitors every year. They are wild places, and should be approached as such. Even if you are not camping out in the Parks, there are still some gear I would highly recommend taking with you on day hikes (especially if you don't want to pay the high premium by buying the gear at the Parks themselves)

The 10 essentials:

1. A map: DO NOT LEAVE on a trail or on the road without one. GPS is ok, but WARNING - do not rely on electronics, especially not on your smart phone GPS apps: there is mostly no cellular reception within the National Parks, unless you are right next to a visitor center. NB: it is also a good idea to leave a copy of your itinerary with friends/family, and your schedule, so that they can rescue teams more accurately should you get lost/have an accident  (Remember 127 hours? yeah... you don't want that happening to you). Someone should always be aware of where you are (more or less, no need to attach a track collar)
2. Water, water, water and a water bottle - you may even want to consider the katadyn water purifying bottle. Remember, you can go hungry a long time, but dehydration may kill you in a couple of days. 
3. Swiss Army knife (preferably with a fork or spoon incorporated)
4. A small, but comprehensive first aid kit (I particularly like the REI one, because it has a smaller, detachable kit for the day hikes. I complement it with one small tube of muscle injury cream, a blister treatment pack, a QuickClot ® trauma pack and a suture/stapler kit) WARNING about first aid: I have those extra-items because I know how to use them. Do not add, or attempt to use if you have no experience doing so. If you are a serious hiker, you may consider taking a first aid course at the Red Cross to get familiar with life-saving actions. It is cheap and you get a first aider certificate valid for 2 years.
   
   

   

   My comprehensive medical emergency kit for day hikes

5. Extra clothing - The weather both in the Tetons and Yellowstone can change dramatically quickly. Both being at high elevation, you really should always carry an extra layer, and also a pair of gloves and handwarmers. 
6. Extra food - protein bars and dehydrated food are small items to pack that can save your life, should you get stranded. I usually leave with a small stove (when folded, the size of my handpalm - see below) to be able to heat food, no matter the surroundings or the weather.

   

   The snow peak stove, holds in the palm of the hand and heats fast!

7. A headlamp or flashlight
8. Firestarters and weatherproof matches
9. Emergency shelter - Sure, you don't need a tent for day hikes, but you may get stranded. In which case, it will save you to have a very lightweight, but incredibly effective bivy bag. 
10. Sun protection and sunglasses - The highest point (requiring no mountaineering) at Yellowstone is at 11,000 feet, and the lowest at 6,000 feet. You WILL need sun protection.

I usually like to add these few items to the above list:

• A two way radio (with NOAA weather channel capability) - even though the rangers will not give you their frequencies, you may catch the chatter of other hikers. In an emergency, you can contact nearby hikers, who can then seek help. I find this an essential piece of gear.
• Rehydrating tablets (NUUN are the best, as they have all the electrolytes you need without the artificial sweeteners found in other products)
• Extra batteries (for the radio)
• A small stove with small gas canister (mine is this one)
• A tiny roll of duct tape
• Bear protection: bear spray and bear-proof bags. On day hikes, you do not want to burden yourself with the heavy bear can, so I usually pack my food in these, and sometimes also take this metal mesh bag along.

  You MUST have your bear spray within easy reach! So don't pack it in your backpack. Most sprays come with a belt pouch. Use it. And remember not to use the spray, unless the bear is charging you (sounds obvious... But sometimes, fear makes us do silly things).

  
  

  The contents of my day hike backpack, including in the botton compartment of the backpack, my SLR camera with 2 additional lenses. The weight: about 9 lbs.

Driving Maps

TO GOOGLE MAPS! Google maps is a marvelous resource for any road trips, as it calculates, with great accuracy, not just the best routes, but also how much time each drive will take you. So you can plan your trip with confidence, according to your driving fortitude. 

Recommended road from Salt Lake City or south to the Tetons and Yellowstone: though it takes a little more time than the 84/89 route, take the Idaho Falls road. It crosses the mountains at Teton pass, and the view is breathtaking. Map of that specific route here
If you are traveling between mid-May and mid-June, do check the road conditions, as the pass may still be snowed in. You can check the road conditions here.

WARNING: Do print a copy of your google maps. Cell reception in the West is spotty at best, and if you are using your smartphone Google Maps app, you may get disconnected and miss your turn. So my advice: have a look at your map before you leave, to have the main crossroads in your mind, and print a copy for when the cell reception vanishes. 

Park Maps

Download the map of the parks ahead of time here. 

Know your time limit for hikes, and ask the front desk of the visitor centers for the day hikes pamphlet. 

ASK ASK ASK: the rangers are extremely knowledgeable and can direct you to a hike that will fit your very desires (not crowded, 4 hours, less bears etc...)

See more details about maps below under "Camping"

Lodging

Stay in the park if possible: whether you are camping or 'lodging' ( the parks has many lodges maintained by the group Xanterra), you will need to reserve well ahead of your visit, but don't get discouraged by party poopers or know-it-alls who will tell you the contrary: it does not require MONTHS or YEARS of advance booking. In fact, I got both a backcountry permit and a lodge room within 3 weeks of my stay there. 

• The main Yellowstone lodge (The Old Faithful Lodge) will indeed be booked for months, perhaps year in advance. 
• Plenty of other lodges are available around, and while Yellowstone lodges tend to fill up rapidly, there are always cancellations. So phone ahead of your travel, even if the web reservation page shows full booking.
• If all is full in the park, the Tetons lodges are a great fallback, as they tend to be less overbooked (see below). 

Little know fact: you can check in and get permits for Yellowstone at Grand Teton National Park, the smaller, yet still enjoyed by many, National Park about 40 miles south of the South entrance of Yellowstone. It's usually less crowded, and you get a head start in Yellowstone, avoiding queueing at the Old Faithful ranger station.

The Grand Teton visitor center you can get your permits for Yellowstone at is: 

- The Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center

The other visitor centers (Jenny Lake, Colber Bay, are not processing permits)

The Lodge where you are most likely to find a room in relative short notice at Yellowstone are: 

- The Headwaters Lodge and Cabins (technically a Grand Teton Lodge, but within 2 miles of Yellowstone's south entrance). I stayed there last Saturday. It was perfect for my needs, between the Tetons and Yellowstone. Very quiet. Had a nice restaurant opened until 9.30pm, and more importantly, serves breakfast as early as 6.30am. Which you will need to move on fast to Yellowstone.

Headwaters lodge at 6am.

- The Signal Mountain Lodge (also in the Tetons). Did not stay there, but on a busy week-end, they indicated that there were not full. Plenty of cabins around.

As a rule of thumb, the lodges in the outermost edges of the park will be the most available. So look there first.

Camping: 

Make sure to download the backcountry hiking planners from both the Tetons and Yellowstone.
Tetons backcountry planner
Yellowstone backcountry planner

You WILL need a permit, so make sure you call the ranger stations ahead of time (they are limited and go fast, so plan ahead):
Tetons: http://www.nps.gov/grte/planyourvisit/bcres.htm
Yellowstone: http://www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/backcountryhiking.htm

- Driving
A few things to remember about the great West, especially the states of Utah, Wyoming, Montana and northern Idaho: they are not very populated. It's their charm, but also can be daunting.

• If you are renting a car, make sure that they don't give you a FIAT or a Smart. You need a sturdy steed. I was lucky enough to arrive late in SLT airport, and benefit from a shortage of economy car. I was upgraded to... a Ford Mustang. Now, you may not always be that lucky, but smiling a lot to the car rental employee (Budget, in this case) really did help. 
• Never pass an opportunity to refuel, even if you are almost full. You truly never know when the next gas station will be.
• On par with the above, never miss an opportunity to use the restrooms when you refuel. 
• Plan quick, light meals during the drive (to avoid wasting time) and a nice sit-down meal at the end of your day drive.
• Check the car's spare tire before you leave the rental place
• Check the car's windshield water spray level *with all the bugs splattering on your windshield, you will use that a lot*
• Invest in a cell phone car charger kit (cheap), and an auxiliary sound cable to plug in your iPod or phone into your car's sound system (most rentals have that) for that roadtrip mix playlist you have prepared. :) Music can be relaxing, or reviving when needed on a long drive. [I personally loved barreling across the Snoqualmie Pass in my little Mustang, with the Ride of the Valkyries blaring - Bwahahahahaha!]

Driving the great open - but empty - space of Wyoming

- At the Parks

Facilities

Both Tetons and Yellowstone have exceptionally good facilities, including several grocery stores, gas stations and medical facilities within the boundaries of the park. So if you forgot some gear, or don't have food, you will be able to buy some in the park. But be aware that prices are slightly higher there for gas, and way up for food.

The park lodges also have restaurants, ranging from very chic to pub food. In general, though, they are more expensive than the same standard restaurants outside of the park. Premium is everything, I guess. Most food places in the NPs are catered by Xanterra.

Avoiding the crowd at Yellowstone National Park

Crowds can be unpleasant. But the good news is that, for the most part, the crowds will stick to the focus points of Yellowstone: the Old Faithful, the painter's pot, the Mammoth Hot Springs.

As soon as you hit the trails, the crowds will thin out to oblivion.

My tips:
Yellowstone is opened 24 hours during the summer months
- Get up at 6am and get ready
- Have breakfast from 6.30 to 7am.
- Travel to Old Faithful right away (which mean, from the South Entrance, you will get there around 8am). Don't get distracted by the breathtaking landscape. You will have time later to admire.

Yellowstone's South Entrance at 7am

- Do all the Old Faithful hikes from 8 to 10/11am. If you do so, you will see one eruption from the observation vintage point, and by the time you come back down, on level with the geyser's mouth. The crowd starts coming around 10.30am. So by the time you are waiting for the level eruption of Old Faithful, you will have serious company. But you will have hiked and seen the caldera earlier almost on your own.

Old Faithful at 8am... Observe the lack of crowd! 

- Get the hell out of the area by 11am. By then, the parking lots will have filled up, and Old Faithful will look like an airport on Thanksgiving.
- 11am to whenever: go for a more serious hike on the many trails of the Park. Most day-tourist will stick to the great centers, and Old Faithful. The rest of the park is yours.

Old Faithful erupts

Brave Mustang carried me for 2196 miles. :)